Battle of the Dishes: Denny’s pancakes vs. Fran’s flapjacks
|Denny’s wins…by a grand slam|
I’ve recently tasted pancakes at two downtown diners: the venerable Denny’s at 1600 Broadway (which has one of the best views of the under-construction Performing Arts Center) and the upstart Fran’s Classic Diner, which opened last October in the P&L District.
Fran’s is certainly the prettier venue. Dining with some friends on a Sunday morning, I ordered a side of pancakes ($4.50) and each pancake was as dense and heavy as a soggy dishtowel and none were remotely hot. In fact, I suspect it had been made hours before we even arrived in the restaurant and had been kept sitting in a warming oven. I lifted the griddled disc up off the plate and it was so thick and hard, I wondered whether, if I tossed it across the room, I might accidentally decapitate someone, like the evil henchman Oddjob in Goldfinger.
A few blocks south, the less glamorous Denny’s serves first-rate flapjacks ($3.49 for two) that are light, airy and freshly made. There was no competition: Denny’s scored a grand slam.