There’s something about a dish served in foil

Not too many local restaurants serve dishes wrapped in shiny foil. The Latin Bistro, north of the Missouri River, offers a particularly snazzy shrimp dish in a foil pouch that’s opened to great effect, releasing a little cloud of steam. It evokes the excitement of opening that Epcot-like sphere of Jiffy Pop, back in its visually impressive foil incarnation, pre-microwave ovens.

But even a foil box, like the one above, has a giftlike allure.