The dazzling return of the deviled egg
In the last few weeks, I’ve been surprised to see the picnic classic, deviled eggs, on restaurant menus — done up in various styles and at different price points. The new Waldo boite, Remedy Food + Drink, serves a generous plate of five stuffed egg halves for five bucks. Chef Shanita McAfee’s Magnolia’s Contemporary Southern Bistro offers three, somewhat more upscale, versions of the same dish for $5.75.
A staple of church suppers and backyard barbecues, deviled eggs — the “devil” part refers to adding a fiery spice, maybe a touch of cayenne or a hint of fresh dill, to the creamy filling (typically egg yolks, mayonnaise or mustard, a bit of pickle relish or minced onion) — would be deadly dull without a little kick of something. My mother added a shot of bourbon to her filling recipe. It provided a kick, all right.
