Steered wrong: Golden Ox shouldn’t have gone for the Wal-Mart ‘Steak-Over’
The Golden Ox and I don’t have a long history. I’ve danced with the restaurant’s prime-rib sandwich and enjoyed an unironic Old Fashioned at its bar. But I do have a soft spot for the steer horns above the kitchen, the beaded booths and a dining room that is an unabashed love letter to steak. So my ears perked up when a delightfully generic commercial host informed me that Wal-Mart was doing a ““Steak-Over” (a meat-based makeover?) at the Golden Ox.