Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar is a classy addition to the KC brunch scene
High Noon Lobster Roll:
Creamy hollandaise, perfectly scrambled eggs, and crispy bacon combine to brunch-ify Jax’s next-level lobster roll. // Photo by Lauren Textor
Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar is decorated “like the cruise ship in The Parent Trap,” according to the friend I brought along to the brunch tasting.
It’s fun and elegant all at once, and that’s not an easy vibe to pull off. There’s lots of sleek, polished-looking wood, along with an eye-catching bar and colorfully-stocked fish tanks. The tables are covered in blank paper instead of tablecloths, accompanied by a fistful of crayons.
It’s not difficult to picture Nick and Elizabeth clinking glasses of Chardonnay in the impressively equipped wine room—or to imagine Hallie and Annie running amok.
CrackerJax:
Don’t sleep on the Jax Shake! Apple cider vinegar is all the rage, especially when paired with the smooth, salty flavor of oysters. // Photo by Lauren Textor
To start off, my guest and I each ordered our “most important drink of the day.” I went with a Breakfast Margarita while she sipped a Fancy Mimosa (St. Germain, orange juice, and bubbles). Both were good but not nearly as memorable as the Oyster Shooter I ordered later on. The house Bloody Mary mix is combined with spicy vodka and raw oysters to create a surprisingly refreshing concoction.
The East Coast oysters from the raw bar are referred to as CrackerJax, and we enjoyed a dozen of the briny superfood with a strong sprinkling of Jax Shake, an apple cider vinegar powder seasoning with salt, sugar, and black pepper. I was impressed with the freshness, quality, and flavor of these at a price point of $2.75 each.
The Smoked Tuna Dip is served with veggies and saltines. I consider myself a dip girlie (big into hummus, spinach and artichoke, guacamole, etc.), but this one only kept my attention for about two bites. The texture and flavor soon felt monotonous, even with a variety of vegetables to choose from, but the intended smokiness comes through.
Crab Cake Benedict:
Antioxidant-rich arugula flexes its muscles in the Crab Cake Benedict, contributing a slightly bitter taste. // Photo by Lauren Textor
In contrast, I devoured the Crab Cake Benedict: an English muffin with poached egg and arugula covered with hollandaise, which makes for a fluffy, creamy, savory meal. It’s served with a side of crispy, golden breakfast potatoes.
The High Noon Lobster Roll is my choice for runner-up. The buttery roll is filled with scrambled eggs, crumbled bacon, and more of that delicious hollandaise. Like the Crab Cake Benedict, it comes with breakfast potatoes. Every bite is bursting with bright flavor.
Key Lime Curd French Toast. // Photo by Lauren Textor
At Jax, savory trumps sweet. The Key Lime Curd French Toast is topped with powdered sugar and blueberries in a dish of candied coconut and spiced rum syrup. It’s delicious, but it can’t beat the seafood, although it’s a worthy option for vegetarians or picky eaters.
The Fish Sandwich is a classic. What you see is what you get. Served with a side of fries, the sandwich is flaky, beer-battered cod with cucumber, shredded lettuce, and an innovative pickled mustard seed tartar that adds interest without steering the dish too far from tradition.
There are many great brunch options in Kansas City, but none like Jax. It’s a momentary mental and culinary escape to the coast, where you can channel your inner hot divorced mom in a will-they-won’t-they film. (Dig out your linen shorts or cotton summer dresses for full effect.)
