Dawg Town: Down by the River

As Owen Morris reported last week, the subject of last Friday’s edition of the “Food Critics Show” of KCUR-FM’s Walt Bodine Show was all about hot dogs and other sausages. Mostly it was about the all-American weiner, one of the classic foods of summer and as a dog-in-a-bun — depending on which source you believe — was reportedly first served in the state of Missouri.

The show generated a ton of phone calls, including at least one rave for a place that I never even dreamed existed: River Dogs. It’s so close to the Missouri River that, well, you could practically toss a hot dog into it from this take-out venue’s front door, if you were so inclined. But I’d prefer to eat one of owner John Bruno’s dogs. In fact, the custom-made dog I ordered from Bruno’s take-out window was one of the best hot dogs I’ve ever eaten, bar none.

Bruno, a retired Kansas City firefighter, opened his hot dog stand — which also serves terrific burgers, fries, chili and pig snoot sandwiches — in March. It’s not so easy to find; the first time I went looking for the joint, I drove around in frustration and hunger for nearly 20 minutes. But here’s the secret: from the River Market, take 5th Street to Holmes, take Holmes down to First Street (yes, there really is a First Street) and hang a right. You’ll think you’re in no-man’s land, but after a couple of blocks, you’ll see the low-slung red brick building near the railroad tracks, and you’re there.

River Dogs is only open Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Bruno’s dogs are custom-made, to his specifications, by Fritz’s Superior Meat Company in Kansas City. He’s also one of the few dog shacks in town that puts out a real Chicago-style dog, piled with yellow mustard, pickle relish, chopped onion, a dill spear, sport peppers, tomatoes and celery salt. I didn’t eat one, but before the summer’s out, I will.