Chef Quillan Glynn on making dough from scratch and life in a small town

There is a single stop sign to manage traffic in downtown Highland, Kansas. And when Highland Community College — the oldest college in Kansas — is in session, the population swells by 500 people to more than 1,000. But it’s hard to get a decent bite of pizza.

Casey’s General Store sells the kind of pie you’d expect to get from a gas station, and even Pizza Hut is 15 miles down the road from the northeast Kansas town. And two decades ago, pizza nut Quillan Glynn, 33, did the only thing he could — he learned to make pizza from his mom, Mary Lou.