Chef Marshall Roth on punk-rock dishwashers and white-glove buffets

Chef Marshall Roth is busy prepping for lunch when I show up at the to-go window of Dog Nuvo (1724 Main), the downtown hot-dog restaurant that he runs with partner Harry Blasco. I wait a second to see if he turns before I say, “Hello, chef.” He jumps, his right hand briefly crushing a package of hot-dog buns, his left hand going theatrically to his chest.

“You scared me,” he laughs, “I just get so focused.”