Burger truisms

The rules for burgers haven’t been established, because the burger sits at the uneasy intersection of gourmet food and fast food, and we keep changing the definition of a burger.

The veggie burger was just becoming mainstream a decade ago, and since then we’ve seen an explosion of meats and fish turned into “burger” patties. Even Emeril Lagasse is offering his take on what a burger should be at his new restaurant, Burgers And More. And what do those letters spell? Burgers And More … B … A … M … BAM! See how he did that? How he snuck back his catchphrase when we weren’t watching? We must remember to always be vigilant — Emeril is no longer as fast as once was, but he is no less wiley.

Burgers and More, which features burgers that are a mix of prime and grass-fed beef, is set to open on November 22 at the Sands Casino in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania.