East Side Story: Portia’s Cafe
After driving by this unprepossessing building at 3840 E. Truman Road for years, I finally stopped to have lunch at Portia’s Cafe this week. Friends of mine, including a really fussy Foodie type, have been extolling its virtues for a long time.
Yes, there really is a Portia in the kitchen and she’s owned this diner for 23 years. I understand now why it’s a secret among its devotees: It kind of looks like a small-town jailhouse, thanks to the stone facade and the heavy bars on the windows — but is as clean and neat as pin inside. There are two rooms: the front room, which boasts a few tables and a counter or the sunny, well-lit side room furnished with a half dozen or so of those gray plastic portable tables sold at Costco.
In the side room, the concrete block walls have been whitewashed and there’s a blackboard listing all the daily specials. I mean, it ain’t glamorous, but that’s why the regulars — mostly blue-collar and construction workers — like it so much. The food is inexpensive, the portions are huge and dinner specials are served with baskets of light, fluffy Parker House rolls. My friend Truman had that day’s special: two thick slices of meatloaf smothered in brown gravy and served with two sides, stewed cabbage and macaroni cooked in tomato sauce. It was supposed to also come with mashed potatoes, but Truman substituted Portia’s hand-cut french fries, which he raved about. If you want a different kind of fried spud, Portia’s offers Curly Q fries and tater tots.
I had a very good Patty Melt after the pretty young woman at the next table assured me it was the “best Patty Melt on Independence Avenue.” I can’t imagine higher praise. Another woman at an adjacent table ordered a burger and I noticed she had one man’s name tattooed on her arm, another man’s name on her foot. “She better stick with one guy,” said Truman, “or she’ll run out of body parts.”
Truman was disappointed we didn’t stick around for dessert: That day Portia was serving strawberry cake or lemon cake. But I’d eaten too many Curly Q fries.
Portia’s is open from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. Cash only.
