Hearth Bakery in Weston now called — very accurately — Hearth Bread Co.

When Dylan Low opened his first business last month, he called it Hearth Bakery. But he’s already changing the name.

“My focus is on bread,” says the 21-year-old graduate of the Napa Valley branch of the Culinary Institute of America. “I’m not a traditional bakery. I don’t sell cookies or pies.”

So Low — rhymes with loud — has changed the name of his shop at 17985 State Route 45 North in Weston to Hearth Bread Co. It’s a more fitting moniker for a place that sells four varieties of bread each day, baked in a brick-and-concrete, wood-burning oven that Low built himself. He does offer pastries — apple or blueberry fritters, beignets, brioche morning buns — on Saturdays. Get up early. Those sweet things tend to sell out fast.

“There’s usually a line out the door on Saturday morning,” Low says.

Low started baking as a child, learning from his mother and grandmother. When the Wichita native graduated from high school in Weston, he couldn’t decide if he wanted to go to culinary school or into the military. Cooking won out. His family wasn’t surprised: Low had been working as a line cook at Weston’s Avalon Cafe, under the direction of owner and chef David Scott, for five years. “David taught me a lot,” Low says.

The 69-year-old building on State Route 45 was an apple warehouse before Low and his family moved in. Now, Low’s father runs a business at the same address, renovating classic midcentury cars (last week, a 1933 Dodge was on the blocks), and his mother operates a vintage clothing business here.

Low changes the bread selections daily, but he always features a French boule, ciabatta, and some variation on a sourdough loaf, notably his Danish sourdough. “It’s a dense loaf made with stone-ground whole wheat and sourdough starter,” Low says.

The boule is a terrific white bread — soft but not too airy, with a flavorful, crackly crust.

On Wednesdays, Low bakes a cranberry-walnut loaf and a crusty cinnamon-raisin bread. He also creates some kind of seasonal focaccia using vegetables and herbs from his garden.

Saturdays, Low, who gets to his bakery at 1 a.m., fries his light, yeasty fritters — apple and blueberry — then glazes them in a perfectly light sugar. His fried beignets, shaped like “long john” doughnuts, are smothered in powdered sugar. The pastries, heaped on trays in an antique glass display case, sell out early. So does the featured breakfast: French toast, served with real maple syrup and fruit.

Even while Low is frying dough on Saturday mornings, he’s baking bread. Low burns both hickory and locust in his oven and says the fragrant woods impart a hint of distinctive flavor to his loaves. Patrons of his bread shop have been requesting rye and pumpernickel breads, so Low has been experimenting with those and other flours.

“I only use Midwest-grown grain for my flour, and half of that is organic,” he says.

Hearth Bread Co. is open from 7 a.m. to noon Wednesday through Saturday. And, Low says, that’s it, at least for now. “Bread baking is a very simple life,” he tells me. “I’m very content with the way things are now.”