Kansas City is not a culinary wasteland

Just when I think we’re making progress, I read something like this in The Chicago Tribune:

The Republic of Eataly, which resembles an autonomous state, is found in Manhattan, not quite a year old, and judging from the line to get in, much hotter than Dubai. In fact, super-chef Mario Batali’s temple to all things Italian is so popular, and replicable, that Dubai will probably have its own Eataly embassy in no time. But then so will, oh, Lawrence, Kan. And Kansas City. And probably anywhere in this country where there is a patch of open space not already occupied by a restaurant, bakery or market.

Kansas City is not a culinary wasteland capable of signifying that a restaurant trend has jumped the shark.