Can someone explain the magic of Taco Via?

• Facebook: Taco Via
• Uncovering the myth of Taco Via.

Every city has restaurants that seem to defy the gravity of what they’re serving. Restaurants that inspire fanatic devotion and unquestioning loyalty — Charles Ferruzza dived fork-first into several of the cult classics here in Kansas City right after Thanksgiving.

Not on his list — which included Don Chilito’s and In-a-Tub — was Taco Via, the childhood staple of seemingly everyone I’ve met from south Johnson County since moving to Kansas City. Happy in Bag recently visited the new-ish location at 95th Street and Antioch (it opened in November) and was mystified by the lunch line. Can anyone put their love of Taco Via into words, or is it simply beyond description?