If Sauced was the appetizer, Triune is the main course for Steven Blakley

September 3, 2024

Sarah Sipple, Zach Bauman,

Photo by Zach Bauman

Steven Blakley plays things close to the vest. From the strategically quiet rollout of his restaurant opening to his subdued presence, thoughtful consideration and calculation seem to be his style. However, that shouldn’t be misconstrued as boring or unapproachable. In fact, he’s always thinking about how to bring people together and curate the perfect atmosphere for the occasion. Hospitality is his art, and restaurants are his medium.

Blakley recently opened Triune—a new restaurant and bar on the border of Kansas City’s Westside and Crossroads neighborhoods. Before this upscale spot, he and his brother Spencer Blakley opened Sauced—a casual burger joint in Crossroads—and partnered with Chef Jayaun Smith for other ventures under their UHungry restaurant group.

Photo by Zach Bauman

“After some pop-ups, we were approached to open Sauced in Crossroads within 30 days. From there, it just took off. It was supposed to be temporary, just a couple months. And I’d say it has been the door opener. It’s the appetizer, if you will, for all the other opportunities that have come,” says Blakley. It’s safe to say that Sauced busted down doors as it is still open four years later, and Blakley is now getting his next endeavor off the ground.

The opportunity for Triune, or at least the location, practically fell in Blakley’s lap. But he had long been planning a more formal, new-age spot to complement Sauced.

Photo by Zach Bauman

He was approached by a developer and afforded the chance to design a space nearly from scratch. Just before it was Triune, the space was a law office, so everything you see was hand-selected by Blakley. Not only was this a chance for him to flex his creative muscles, bridging design with hospitality, but also a chance for him to address one of his secondary passions: reducing waste in the restaurant industry.

When grabbing a bite, you’ll see historic brick walls left exposed, rather than adding new material to the establishment. The space is filled with fixtures built to last and custom or repurposed pieces as an alternative to cheaper, overused big-box furniture. Even the comfortable and uniform chairs at each table were refurbished from a corporate office in Topeka.

Photo by Zach Bauman

Decoding Triune

The restaurant’s name, Triune, is a nod to the three pillars of dining, according to Blakley: the diner, the atmosphere, and the service (which includes food and drink). The ambiguous name also lends itself well to their “American fusion” menu.

“I didn’t necessarily feel strong ties to any specific cuisine. So I was like, ‘Let’s do American fusion.’ This allows us to be playful, and I know we’re going to be pulling flavors from different spaces,” Blakley says. Which is why Rodolfo Rodriguez was his first pick for Executive Chef. Rodriguez brings extensive experience in global cuisine from former gigs at Boru, Blu Hwy, La Bodega, and more.

Photo by Zach Bauman

The bread starter, three panibus ($10), succinctly illustrates this American fusion genre and sets the tone for a meal. Focaccia, cornbread, and a biscuit represent variety, while the dipping oil, smoked peach jam, and honey butter show off Triune’s attention to detail.

In Kansas City, if we’re not chowing down on BBQ, it’s wings. So it is no surprise that the smoked and fried wings ($14) are already the top-seller. A dry rub of Chinese five spice sets it apart from other wings, but the process of being smoked and then flash-fried makes for the crispiest, most crackling skin.

Photo by Zach Bauman

Additional dishes that were impossible to rank included the satay ($14), which reminded me of a beloved family recipe that I have yet to encounter in the KC dining scene, and the thick house bacon ($10). However thick you’re picturing, make it bigger. The candied jalapenos resting on top make this a seriously fun dish—sweet, spicy, savory. And while we’re on the topic of big, it is worth noting that these so-called small plates have fairly generous portions for the price.

Blakley said himself that diners are doing themselves a disservice by skipping dessert made by Graham Farris, Triune’s Sous Chef and Pastry Chef. In fact, the shareable theme ends with dinner. “If you do it right, you won’t be overly stuffed from the shareable food, so get that dessert. You could share it, but you probably won’t want to,” he says. After trying a few of Farris’ creations, I am inclined to agree.

Photo by Zach Bauman

Triune as a Third Place

Shareability is one element of the social aspect that Blakley had in mind when designing Triune. “I think this idea of small plates is cool as a consumer when dining with others. It’s like a version of family style, where the aspect of small plates gets that talking and reaching and communal dining going, but without the commitment of sharing just one big ‘family-style’ dish,” Blakley says.

When researching the future of restaurants, Blakley looked at both similar and cutting-edge markets, such as Chicago and New York City. Small plates and flexible concepts aren’t going anywhere, and at the same time, there are no new ideas. But Blakley believes that if the ambiance and quality of food and service are there, the people will follow.

Photo by Zach Bauman

He compares restaurants to a coffee bean: “If you think of coffee, the base is always a coffee bean, but there’s probably 1,000 different drinks, styles, methods that you can make from just that one coffee bean.”

With his bean, Blakley has created a space where people will feel just as comfortable stopping in for a cocktail before a show at the Kauffman Center, as they will bringing a group of friends for a dinner to catch up. Or just for dessert after a night walking around First Fridays.

Photo by Zach Bauman

And while it’s not literally designed as a see and be-seen type of social place, Triune’s goal is comfortable connection. Blakley says he wants guests to realize “Oh, wow, two and a half hours have passed and you’re just really enjoying the company that you come with and the space, but it’s all flowing together. And that’s where we talk about how there’s the atmosphere, the service—like the depth of the food and drinks, and how we’re treating you. And then there’s you, the individual. We are very much a part of the space when it comes to a restaurant.”

Triune is at 1656 Washington St, Kansas City, MO 64108.

All Photos by Zach Bauman: