Swiftie showmanship, ketchup flights, and disarming decor? 1587 Prime Steakhouse stuns on first showing
What could have been a Kelce/Mahomes cash-in vanity project is vibrant, voracious, and dare we say, vital
Expectations are high when established restaurateurs open a new spot. Diners expect them to know what they’re doing right off the bat, and give less grace for errors and delays. Expectations are even higher when household names like Patrick Mahomes and Travis Kelce are behind the restaurant. …Not because they know the ins and outs of the restaurant biz, but their names carry a level of attention that draws eyes as well as critics.
The two Chiefs players partnered with Noble 33, a restaurant group from Plano, TX to create a contemporary steakhouse in downtown Kansas City—a metro known for holding its high-end meat mastery to a higher standard. 1587 Prime Steakhouse is connected to the Loews Hotel near the Power and Light and Crossroads districts in Kansas City.
This move is bold, not only because of high failure rates and low profit margins in the restaurant industry, but because of the particular pride of the Kansas City scene. We like local. We like small. We like accessibility. It is quite possible that our protective attitudes towards our special-occasion restaurants and meat-centered identities could win out against our adoration of these two athletes.
It is daring, maybe foolish, to think one can just buy their way into the hallowed halls of the KC steakhouse scene. You might as well be infringing on mob territory (literally?), not to mention a discerning crowd.
The steakhouse opens on September 17, and the people are willing to give it a try: Reservations are already booked out through the next month. The Pitch was invited to tour the space mid-summer, then attend a preview event to experience the restaurant in its entirety.
First impressions
As if the Noble 33 and celebrity names weren’t enough to set the bar high, then there’s the interior design and aesthetics. There is, indeed, a wow factor upon entering the restaurant.
This place looks stunning. I’m not exaggerating when I say, damn, it is beautiful and unlike anything else around here. Juicy marble, rich wood, gold sculptural accents, and highly curated mood lighting set the tone for sexy elegance.
Our excellent serving staff told me they were previously at Q39, The Capitol Grille, and Eddie V’s. Since I’ve only attended a “VIP Preview” night so far, I have to separate most of the service aspect because the whole point was to impress us. Time will tell—and I do have reservations to try it again under less pomp and circumstance—whether the service element holds up.
A preview event is not just about spreading the word, but serves as a practice run for the restaurant. Pacing of the courses was slow, which for us meant that our food wasn’t as hot as it could have been. That will likely be improved after the crew has more than just two days of practicing the flow and teamwork required to run kitchen and bar service for 238 people. I was also surprised that the plates weren’t chilled or warmed for certain dishes.
Show and tell (and sip)
There is a cocktail inspired by, or honoring, Taylor Swift. And Travis Kelce, Patrick Mahomes, and Brittany Mahomes. This is “The Players” section of the cocktail menu. I worked so hard not to order cocktails based on the person or name. Yet, this Swiftie still landed on The Alchemy. I was sold on the very first ingredient: clarified citrus vodka blend. Then dry curacao, aronia berry (chokeberry), cranberry, strawberry, cranberry, lime, and oolong. Say less.
I can only describe it as magically sweet. It was bright and pleasant and daintily tart, but in a way that dissipated in the mouth rather than lingering as with heavy syrups. In contrast, the Queen B (Brittany) cocktail ($18) was much sweeter and heavier, but still offered a little bit of flavor depth to make it interesting.
But first comes the showmanship. The Alchemy has a dramatic presentation, as a dark, stringy substance is wrapped around the base of the cocktail glass and set ablaze. Sparks dance and embers spiral around the glass handle. It’s a simple trick of steel wool, yet its effect is mesmerizing for a few moments. It’s truly just for show, as the burning is not intended to add a smoky element to the drink, and in fact, the server must stand and wait as it burns, only to remove the metal plate and steel wool once it has self-extinguished.
Did this sparkling presentation add anything to the drink itself? Not one bit. Am I ever one to turn up my nose at a little fanfare and fun? Never! I will absolutely be ordering The Alchemy ($19) again, and it has nothing to do with the pretty sparks.
I also tried the Showtime cocktail ($18)–a nod to Patrick Mahomes. The concoction didn’t taste as unique as I expected for the ingredients: aged rum, toasted coconut, coffee, Coors Light syrup, lime, and soda. I enjoyed the bitter elements, and it was a strong cocktail, but next time I’ll be reordering The Alchemy and trying one of the martinis made tableside.
The real dish
Here’s a quick rundown of the dishes my spouse and I ordered.
The yellowtail hamachi starter ($27) was incredible–it could have been a bit spicier, but it had the best texture out of any I’ve had in recent memory, and I order this dish frequently. The complimentary bread service consisted of Parker House rolls and butter, which were light and perfectly gluten-y, though far from the star of the show.
We ordered togarashi fried chicken ($23) and diver scallops ($48) as sharables, and would order both again, depending on our mood. The scallops had no ick factor, and the caramelization was delectable. The fried chicken was served with three varieties of honey, and the hot honey was the one we kept reaching for. I appreciated the thin but very crispy breading on the small pieces of fried chicken. It felt playful, but still able to be eaten with a fork, which is an important consideration when one is dressed up or trying to be on their most proper behavior.
For our entrees, we chose the petite fillet ($56) sourced from Windsor, MO, and roasted branzino ($54), with shareable sides of brocolini ($16) and mashed potatoes ($16). My branzino was not visually appealing or even interesting; in fact, it looked a bit messy, but had a fabulous, delicate texture and lightness that was easy to eat. It could have used more flavor, even after the lemon sauce.
I love a steakhouse broccolini, and this one was no exception. Some slight heat from chili crisp and lemon gave it a pleasant zip. The mashed potatoes were buttery and rich but almost too smooth. I realize this is a more unique personal preference, but I enjoy when mashed potatoes include bits of skin or a few lumps to assure you that it’s from a freshly peeled and mashed tater.
Dessert gave us the most difficult choice of the night. We would have loved to share two, but as you can surmise, we were getting quite full.
We landed on cheesecake ($17), and it was much larger than my photo below implies. The texture was light and dry with balanced flavor, not overly sweet nor leaning towards sour. The thick graham cracker crust was the exact texture I like to see: strong enough to hold itself in place without much crumble, but soft enough to easily bite or cut through. I’m a cheesecake purist, and dislike when it is drizzled with sauces. The simple strawberry slices on top gave some extra sweetness for those who wanted it in their bites, but I happily put mine off to the side.
Going back for seconds?
I’m not a big red meat connoisseur, so the steak itself wasn’t my priority on this visit. You’ll find plenty of commentary on that elsewhere. Therefore, if I were to rank this against other steakhouses, I’d be weighing elements like atmosphere, sourcing, service, cocktails, wine, decor, price, and other food items.
Nightly live music from artists like Talya Groves helps it feel lively rather than stuffy. A steakhouse in the Midwest could get away with offering zero vegetarian options or mocktails – but 1587 chooses to be (minimally) inclusive. And most dramatically, there are theatrical options like a portable martini cart, tableside flambe, and the dazzling alchemy cocktail. Showmanship with a side of ketchup. Literally. There is a “Mahomes ketchup flight” in the steak sauces menu as a personal nod to the athlete’s personal preference. There’s no shame here in dressing up your preferred cut of beef.
1587 Prime is a beautiful place that doesn’t take itself too seriously.
I’ll never be the writer who proclaims if a place is “worth it” or not. There’s immensely too much subjectivity and nuance in the food and hospitality world for that type of blanket proclamation. But personally? I will happily return here on my own dime, though I’ll make a few cuts because I can’t spend $400 (before tip) on a meal, basically ever.