Spice World
It tastes good, but can you dance to it? Our sexiest young pop music stars, from Jennifer Lopez to Ricky Martin, are of Latin origin, and the equally sexy and spicy cuisine of Latin America — which is tastefully represented in many of the dishes at El Caribe — is making a splash too.
In Lawrence, La Parilla (814 Massachusetts Street) may be a laid-back storefront joint (you order at the counter, and servers bring the food out to you) with uncloaked tables, paper napkins and plastic glasses, but it has terrific food, including dishes native to Mexico, Argentina, Brazil and El Salvador. A delicious black bean dip comes with crispy strips of fried plantain; the guacamole is fresh-tasting and inexpensive; and the flaky empañadas are stuffed with yellow squash and zucchini. For its superb Brazilian steak salad, La Parilla uses a lime-marinated sirloin and a fragrant Argentinian chimichurri sauce, made with herbs and peppery vinegar. The exceptional Salvadoran enchiladas are fat with potatoes and yuca root and are slathered with a pale-green cheesy verde sauce. Diners can wash down the enchiladas with beer, tequila, soda or, better yet, a big glass of Brazilian “lemonade”: a tart concoction of lime juice, lime rind, coconut milk and fresh ginger. Or be really adventurous and try a glass of horchata, made with rice milk and cinnamon.
Closer to home, the husband-and-wife team of Gary and Cristina Worden (she’s a native of Buenos Aires) will open their Argentinian steakhouse, Piropos (the name translates as “compliment to a woman”) at the end of March. A billboard advertising the new restaurant has been standing at the south end of the Broadway Bridge for more than a month, though the Wordens aren’t taking reservations yet. But get ready — the place will be a showstopper.
The Wordens, who publish magazines, constructed a stunning new building — designed by Enrique De La Pena — on top of a hill in Parkville (1 W. First Street). From the outdoor patio and the spacious dining room with wraparound windows, the all-encompassing view allows diners to see everything from Park University to the Kansas City skyline.
And the couple have brought in Chef Tomas di Gregorio, 27, from Buenos Aires to oversee the kitchen. He has created a menu emphasizing juicy steaks prepared in the Argentinian fashion (marinated, grilled and served with chimichurri), pastas, and fresh fish and chicken dishes served with grilled vegetables, salads and a variety of empañadas and traditional desserts, including apples baked into a thin crêpe.
The Wordens’ son-in-law, restaurant veteran Sam Silvio, has signed on as general manager. “That’s one way we can make sure we always get the best table,” says Gary Worden, laughing. And they’ve hired former Gilbert-Robinson corporate trainer Susan Dixon to prepare the serving staff, who will work in a European-style dining room, complete with a fireplace and a mural that depicts downtown Buenos Aires.
No one will be singing “Don’t Cry For Me, Argentina” when Piropos throws open its glass doors. The flavors and spirit of Evita‘s homeland will be just across Broadway — the Broadway Bridge, that is.
