Revisiting a ritual: Absente absinthe leans in on showmanship
In the world of spirits, absinthe tends to sit in a bit of a mythical spot. It conjures images of tortured European artists like Vincent Van Gogh and Oscar Wilde, sipping hallucinogenic alcohol while creating their artistic masterpieces. For some, their only exposure to the uniquely-colored spirit is Nicole Kidman and Ewan McGregor singing their way through Moulin Rouge! Maybe that movie even convinced a college-aged you to tangle with the Green Fairy, unaware that the combination of potent licorice flavor and overproof level of alcohol might be the right fit for a distressed bohemian, but it was not the right fit for you, Jordan.
When The Pitch got their grubby little hands on a couple bottles of Absente, a premium absinthe brand out of France, it fell to me to rekindle my fling with the Green Fairy. This time, I would treat it with respect, following the absinthe ritual and mixing up a few cocktails. It seemed like a better plan than filling a red solo cup halfway and seeing where the night took us.
Let me tell you—it makes a big difference.
Absente boasts a striking presentation: The bottles came in sleeves with beautiful art and design elements, especially the prominently featured Green Fairy absinthe spoon. It pours cleanly and, like most absinthe, is an almost out-of-this-world green color—absinthe is often referred to as “natural green,” but a melted-down green apple Jolly Rancher is the comparison that immediately comes to mind. It’s pretty and looks unlike just about any spirit out there.
First, a little taste of the spirit on its own. Broadly, both Absente and the premium Grande Absente hit the same notes: You get a strong licorice aroma alongside that dangerous burn in your nostrils that accompanies overproof alcohol. However, it’s a surprisingly decent sipper on its own if you’re a fan of strong, straight spirits. The standard Absente tastes a little sweeter than its Grande counterpart. The Grande Absente has a more natural flavor and also a stronger burn—it’s 138-proof, meaning a little bit goes a long way. The standard Absente is 110-proof, so it’s also got some boozy muscle.
For a more traditional taste of absinthe, each bottle features instructions for the “Absinthe Ritual.” This involves pouring your absinthe into a glass and placing the provided absinthe spoon on the rim. You set a sugar cube on top of the spoon, then pour cold water over the cube to dissolve it into the spirit.
The ritual does a number of things. It mellows and transforms the flavor of the absinthe—even with the added sugar, the water dilutes it enough to make for a much more inviting flavor profile. It also changes the color, changing from transparent green to an opaque, slightly two-tone green.
Finally, it makes it an event. Interactivity is always fun, and the absinthe ritual definitely helps put you in the bohemian headspace that makes this a much more approachable drink than you would think of, with its commanding licorice flavor and strong alcohol burn. It begs to be enjoyed on a warm spring evening alongside the night sky, baked goods, and quiet jazz.
Absente also lends itself nicely to classic absinthe cocktails. Whiskey lovers should set their sights on the Sazerac—probably the classic absinthe cocktail. It’s easy to make and dangerous to enjoy in multiples. The Corpse Reviver #2 and Death in the Afternoon have a slightly lighter feel, and they make for nice, approachable ways to get a little bit of that absinthe taste without total sensory overload.
Speaking of approachable absinthe, we need to address the most common rumor about the spirit: Is it going to make me hallucinate?
Absente contains wormwood to provide its unique flavor—almost all absinthe does—and wormwood is a source of thujone. At extremely high levels, thujone is toxic and can cause convulsions. But you’re never going to throw back enough absinthe to poison yourself with wormwood. Any old tales of absinthe causing visions and hysterics are probably due to a combination of demonization from temperance or purity organizations and extreme intoxication from such a potent spirit.
If you and your friends like to experience new flavors, want to add some interactivity to your cocktails or you just want to unleash your inner bohemian, Absente is a good way to dip your toes into the green-tinted water.
Their Grande Absente is definitely worth the extra cost, but you probably want to start with the standard bottle if you’re an absinthe novice to make sure the licorice flavor is right for you. You can find it at a few stores in town, like Gomers, Hy-Vee Liquor Stores, Total Wine & More, and many other stores will order bottles if you request them.
Freedom, beauty, truth, and love are just a sugar cube away.