Mise en Place: Fresh takes and Asian influences guide Mari Matsumoto’s cocktail creations at Goat & Rabbit

Photo Courtesy of Mari Matsumoto

In the bar scene of Kansas City, few stories are as captivating as that of Mari Matsumoto, a seasoned bartender whose journey began in the quiet farmlands of Japan.

With family in the restaurant industry and farming, Matsumoto’s path has been one of passion and resilience. From bussing tables and decorating cakes to becoming a well-respected mixologist, her story is a testament to the dedication and creativity in every cocktail she crafts. Whether it’s the fusion of flavors inspired by her heritage or the drinks born out of vivid dreams, Matsumoto’s influence continues to shape and inspire the local industry.

Now, at Goat & Rabbit, she brings innovation to Kansas City with her rotating seasonal cocktails. 

The Pitch: Tell us about yourself.

Matsumoto: I was born and raised in Japan. My mother has a culinary background, so I grew up in the restaurant industry while my grandparents were farmers in a small village in Japan. I got into the industry really young, and it was just natural to me. I’ve done everything under the sun in the industry. First off, I was bussing tables, then I was a cake decorator for a little while, a host, chef, dishwasher, and server. Once I got old enough, I got into bartending, and I always loved the interactions. Seeing guests happy grew my sense of accomplishment. So I stayed with front of the house and got into management for quite some time. Then I fell in love with the development of cocktails and recipe creation. 

What led you to Kansas City? 

I moved here from San Francisco to find the other side of my family and then settled down. I was not intending to stay here, but Kansas City is extremely affordable, and I saw a lot up and coming. When I moved here 16 years ago, there wasn’t much in the culinary and bar scene, but I saw the growth, and that made me want to stay and grow with Kansas City. 

What were some of the challenges you faced entering the bartending industry? 

Obviously, it’s not the easiest for someone who’s ethnic as well as a woman in this industry. Being taken seriously and getting a chance was extremely hard, but I was fortunate enough to have a good group of people. Even with a lot of the established gentlemen in Kansas City, they took me in and gave me my wings so I was able to flourish. 

What’s an average day for you?

It depends on the day, but every day, I’m trying to learn, otherwise it’s pointless. Currently, I’m stapled at Goat & Rabbit where I work with a team to develop cocktails. There are nights that I work behind the bar as I feel it’s important to still have your hand in the game. Since there’s a newer generation that’s coming into the industry, I’m developing them and training them behind the bar as well. 

Courtesy Mari Matsumoto

How do you balance your bartending work with your busy life? 

It is a lot to balance. We have a short life to live, and I might as well just fill it up. I love waking up and getting myself ready and even recording make-up videos for TikTok. During COVID, I didn’t get ready for a long time. It was just another day of shutdown. So, you have to get ready, but balancing it, honestly, is extremely hard and stressful. We all deal with a lot of anxiety and depression in the industry, but I think keeping myself busy and grounded and putting my family first is the most important part. 

Why do you think anxiety and depression are so common in the restaurant industry?

It goes with the industry, and I think a lot of past trauma can come to fruition. Growing up in this industry, our mental health was never taken into account. We never got to take days off, and we worked through sickness. That has all changed since COVID, but we still don’t have the health care that we need or the balance of work. It’s not a nine-to-five, it can even be a 3 p.m. to 3 a.m. shift without a break. Things like that can wear you down, and sometimes guests can wear you down as well by saying things that really trigger you.

How do you take care of yourself? 

It took a long time for me to figure out self-care because I always put my staff first. I always said that we need to make sure everyone has a mental health day or just a day off. I want to make sure it’s a good work-life balance, and I’m able to give that to my staff. But, sometimes, I forget about myself. I’m getting better, and self-care can be as simple as watching TV or sketching new drinks. I’ll also go get massages or acupuncture, go on hikes, and go nature walks. Things like that help ease the brain.

What is your process of coming up with a new drink?

A lot of it stems from my crazy dreams and synesthesia. I have a different chemical compound in my brain where I can associate days of the week with different colors, tastes, and sounds. If I go on nature walks, I will see a certain leaf that will inspire me. I also have a notebook beside my bed in case I dream something, and sometimes it just starts with a silly name or a mom joke. 

What aspects of your life impact your drink-making? 

Working on the farm with my grandparents and being able to see my mom with all the ingredients she used as a chef, inspire me to this day. I also do a lot of weird stuff from my childhood memories, like Hi-Chews or an Instant Noodle cocktail. There is a lot of Asian influence, but I also get to travel and taste a lot of ingredients that inspire me. 

Goat & Rabbit is located at 1804 W. 39th St., Kansas City, MO 64111.