Hungarian Food at Grinders

Longtime KC diners may remember George’s Cheese and Sausage Shop, the Main Street restaurant that Hungarian cook George Detsios (above at right) operated with his mother. Tables from that eatery now serve customers at Grinders (417 East 18th Street, 816-472-5454), and on Monday nights, the elfin chef does, too. Starting at about 7 p.m., the 75-year-old Detsios personally presents plates of goulash (vegetables and beef chunks over rice pilaf) or Hungarian chicken (about the same except for the meat), along with frequent hugs and kisses on the cheek, until 30 or so helpings are gone. “I like to schmooze with my customers,” Detsios says. The main dish alternates every week and includes a hunk of bread for $7.95. Detsios still uses old-country recipes invented by his nomadic ancestors, but subtle substitutions — such as canola or olive oil instead of bacon grease — make the hearty meals healthier.

Mondays, 5 p.m., 2007