Fallternative treats: Exploring autumnal flavors around Kansas City
Everything nice, hold the pumpkin spice.
At a recent Pitch staff meeting, we debated what represents the start of fall.
I tend to be quite literal, so I said it comes down to the season date marked on the calendar. Facts.
You may have noticed that our President, Andrew Miller’s, marker is the Louisburg Cider Fest, as he mentioned in our free Calendar newsletter. Others on staff had more esoteric definitions, like fall starts when they begin their annual Gilmore Girls rewatch, or when they get sick of summer and want to start decorating for Halloween.
Some people mark the seasons by flavors. Specifically, the return of the infamous Starbucks PSL menu, which was on August 26. I had to stay true to myself and only start diving into fall-cliche flavors once the season, as dictated by the autumnal equinox, turned. Now that we’re here, I’m stoked.
As Kansas City cafes and restaurants have been launching their seasonal menus, I’ve been bookmarking and making plans. I spent the last couple of days bopping around town to sample some of the new items.
There is an absence of anything “pumpkin spice” simply because we, as a society, are plenty used to that. It’s still readily available, but I’d rather show off the creativity from baristas and bakers beyond the gourd. Fallternatives, if you will:
Good Karma Coffee, Three on a match ($8)
3134 Gillham Rd, Kansas City, MO 64109
Created by Good Karma barista and coffee roaster, Jacob Kingsley, this is it if you’re afraid of “too-sweet” coffee drinks. I get it. In fact, I’d say this might be the go-to coffee shop for not-too-sweet drinks.
Three on a Match was inspired by a superstitious phrase soldiers started using in WWI. A dark and spooky namesake and the lesser-used baking spices make this a perfect fit for a fall drink. As the glass fills with smoke, espresso is pulled and oat milk is steamed to be combined with a small amount of house-made syrup using cardamom, black pepper, and allspice. The result is an interesting drink that’s worth taking a pause in your busy day to appreciate. The spices linger on the lips and tongue, playing well with the foam and slightly creamy textures. The sweetness level is just barely above a nice dairy milk.
Blackhole Bakery, Caramel corn mochi donut ($2.75)
5531 Troost Ave, Kansas City, MO 64110
I’m not sure I’ll ever stop preaching the Blackhole Bakery mochi gospel. As I was taking photos of the bakery’s exterior, holding my freshly-purchased box of donuts, strangers walked by and asked what the place was. I told them it’s a great bakery, and literally gave them one of my donuts. I gave up the chocolate donut–the only staple on the mochi menu–because I’ve had it so many times that I could part with it just this once, and because I knew it was a fairly universal flavor. Sure enough, I heard an “Oh my gosh!” exclamation at the first bite as they walked away.
On this visit, I came for the caramel corn variety that launched on October 1. Teensy bits of caramel corn are suspended in the glaze, and the donut has a subtle, earthy flavor. This isn’t the most shockingly accurate flavor they’ve ever made, but it’s a treat. Plus, one can enjoy the idea of caramel corn without the sticky worry for teeth. The almond mochi donut, notably sweeter, is another standout in this batch.
Thai Orchid, Apple wontons ($11.95), and Asian pear sake punch ($13)
464 NW Legacy Dr, Kansas City, MO 64155
6504 Martway St, Mission, KS 66202 (Asian pear sake punch not available at this location)
Most people visit Thai Orchid for pad Thai, but it was their new fall menu that drew me in for this visit. I enjoyed an early “lunch” of delicate apple wontons, a tart pear cocktail, and a side of dumplings as a grounding flavor.
I ordered the dessert to come out at the same time as the dumplings because, well, free will. Bouncing between the two pockets of joy was a true treat. The dumplings–not a fall item, but a menu staple–were sturdy and well dressed, while the apple wontons were light and simple in the best way. They were slightly less sweet than traditional apple pie, but using them to scoop a dollop of the included ice cream can dial up the sweetness when desired.
The cocktail… was excellent. It had three alcoholic elements in it, yet tasted purely refreshing and crisp. I would order it year-round, but I’m thankful that pears are in season now to complement the earthier flavors that fall is known for.
Clementine’s Ice Cream, Mothman ($6)
6966 Mission Rd, Prairie Village, KS 66208
Here’s another treat that doesn’t necessarily feature fall harvest ingredients, but instead leans into the playful nature of spooky season. Mothman is a limited-time ice cream flavor at Clementine’s, the new parlor in Prairie Village.
Mothman is dark and a little creepy–and be warned that it may stain your teeth. However, this isn’t from red dye #40, but instead from bitter black cocoa ice cream blended with raspberry jam. The result is a shockingly decadent and dark chocolate-forward treat that will have you wondering why all chocolate ice cream isn’t this good.
Black Dog Coffeehouse, Autumn crunch club ($14, including a side)
12815 W 87th Street Parkway, Lenexa, Kansas 66215
On a sweet potato roll rests turkey, bacon, spiced apple aioli, and autumn slaw made with cabbage, carrots, and apples. This wouldn’t be my first choice of bread, but the color and structure of it was appreciated. It offers a mild flavor overall, with most bites having a hint of salt from the bacon and tartness from the thinly sliced apples.
By the second half of nearly all sandwiches I eat, I’ve picked out my favorite elements and end up deconstructing it. Not this one. I ate each bite as intended because even though the bread was a little tough, it worked so well together as a whole.
I intended to order the wassail with it, but felt rushed on a busy afternoon, and the hot, old-school drink slipped my mind. Next time!
Mitch e Amaro, Apologue carrot root liqueur cocktail ($13)
306 Armour Rd, North Kansas City, MO 64116
This cocktail hits the menu at Mitch e Amaro on Friday, October 10, but it was featured at a recent fall-themed pop-up event and in their email newsletter. I’ve had my eye on it from the second I saw “carrot liqueur”.
Here, bartended Sie stirs butter-washed Mellow Corn whiskey with Apologue Carrot Root Liqueur, house-made honey simple syrup, and saline. The result is a simple sipper, no frills required. The smooth concoction gives a heady warmth but no burn, and provides a sweetness like that of steamed carrots. The flavors of corn, honey, and carrot marry in an equitable autumnal relationship.
Fans of the carrot liqueur may also be happy to learn that the Apologue brand also makes paw paw, saffron, celery root, and other unique liqueurs, and Mitch e Amaro carries them. The North KC spot is not only a cocktail bar, but a bar supply store as well. On October 30, they’re bringing back favorite cocktails from past pop-up events at their Return of the Living Drink party.
Renegade Coffee, Shaken salted maple latte ($4.75), and English toffee latte ($4.50)
8708 N. Oak Trafficway, Kansas City, MO 64155
Renegade in the Northland made the list more for its atmosphere than its drinks. Located next to a library, this coffee shop is in a former home, and the homey atmosphere remains. After grabbing a cup of coffee, guests can saddle up to a bistro table in the main dining room for a bustling energy, or make their way downstairs or out back for a more relaxed setting. Between the front porch rockers, mums and hanging plants, and occasional live music under the pergola out back, it’s an ideal cozy spot to catch up with a friend or take a moment for yourself.
I enjoyed two drinks on this visit, one hot and one iced… Inside me are two wolves: one that wants to embrace fall and one that physically recognizes that it was actually 85 degrees outside. As usual at Renegade, the drinks are sweet and offer subtle flavors. The hot English toffee latte had a hint of nuttiness, and the shaken salted maple latte (iced) provided a simple sweetness with a touch of depth.