Eat This Now: farro with crispy egg at the Campground

Based on his work at Howard’s Cafe in the Crossroads, we were already very much aware of chef Craig Howard’s talents; his burger, served with house-made American cheese, is one of the city’s best. But Howard’s recent work as executive chef and partner at the new West Bottoms spot The Campground is really demonstrating just how deep those talents run.

For example: his farro salad, which sounds like a humble, perhaps even dull dish. Howard takes pearl farro (an ancient grain that looks like fat brown rice but has a chewier texture that’s closer to a pasta) and cooks it to a perfect al dente texture before dressing it with a bright lemon oil. It’s topped with savory roasted root vegetables (currently parsnips, though this may change depending on what’s available) and microgreens. The salad is then topped with what can only be described as magic: a breaded, deep-fried soft-boiled egg. To eat, you cut into that egg with your fork, letting the still-runny yolk drench the farro and roasted vegetables. The dish is hearty and healthy, bright and decadent all at once. Thank you, Howard.

The Campground, 1531 Genessee.