Eat This Now: Bolognese Fries at Ravenous
We wouldn’t necessarily expect a take on chili cheese fries from James Beard Award-nominated chef Michael Corvino. His Crossroads restaurant Corvino Supper Club and Tasting Room is known for progressive fare prepared with exacting standards. Recently, though, Corvino and his wife and business partner, Christina, opened Ravenous, a fast-casual joint connected to their marquee establishment. (It’s only open for take-out and delivery during weekday lunches until the spring.) And it turns out that Corvino can dream up craveable, snacky treats just as well as he can craft a precise tasting menu. In the case of his Bolognese fries, it’s all about that sauce—a meaty, umami-rich, super flavorful tomato gravy that Corvino also serves on fresh pasta in the supper club. It’s an involved process to make. He starts with a braised onion and garlic sofrito, adds bacon, beef short ribs and brisket, along with a savory beef and chicken reduction, red wine reduction, and house-stewed tomatoes. Then he gives it some heat with Calabrian and Thai chili oil, and a Vietnamese fish sauce and fermented rice koji. The sauce is then cooked for hours, imparting deep flavor and oh-my-god richness. For his Ravenous menu, Corvino slathers the Bolognese on to crispy, salty french fries, then dusts the whole thing with a layer of parmesan. You can try to just have a few bites, but the far more likely scenario is you staring at the bottom of an empty fry boat, wishing for more.