DRINK THIS NOW: Brewery Emperial’s Biscuit

The word “bitter” means something different across the pond than it does here. Whereas in America we think of a grapefruit, or kale, or Marc Maron, in Britain it’s basically just shorthand for a pale ale. Thus, the British-born style of beer known as the ESB — which stands for “extra-special bitter” — is not necessarily bitter in the American sense. But that has a way of getting lost in translation.

“You can call something an ‘American pale ale’ or a ‘sessionable IPA,’ and it’s gone like that,” says Brewery Emperial brew dude Keith Thompson. “People love it. But, for whatever reason, call that same beer an ‘ESB,’ and it becomes a much tougher sell in America.”

When Thompson and his brewer, Sterling Holman, were dreaming up beers for Brewery Emperial (1829 Oak), they each wrote up some recipes, then compared notes. They discovered they’d independently created an almost identical beer. But while Holman referred to his as an APA, Thompson called his an ESB. What to name it, then? Extra Special Pale? American Bitter?

“We had both liked the idea of using this Belgian malt called biscuit malt in it, which imparts a bready component to it,” Thompson says. “So we settled on Biscuit.”

The flavor of the beer is as charming and approachable as the name. The Biscuit is indeed bready in a way that is vaguely reminiscent of a Fat Tire (remember those?), but it’s crisper and less burnt-toast-like. It is a simple, well-balanced, refreshing-as-hell beer, and — most importantly — you can drink a bunch of them without getting too drunk or feeling disgusting.

We’re not the only ones who have noticed. The Biscuit has been Brewery Emperial’s top seller and house favorite since it opened its doors in late 2016, and, this spring, the brewery decided it would be the first beer to be marketed outside of its East Crossroads home. So far, so good: the Biscuit is already on tap in about 50 local bars and restaurants.

“We ordered 50 tap handles, and they’re all gone now,” Thompson says. “So we’re waiting to get those new ones in. After that, I think you’ll be seeing that Biscuit out more and more.”

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On Twitter at @davidhudnall.