Best of KC 2023: Barbacoa knows that the spice must flow
A full spread at “Best New Restaurant” winner Barbacoa. // Photo by Brooke Tramel
This month, we published The Pitch’s annual Best of Kansas City issue. You can browse the results of the readers’ poll here. The issue also included a list, compiled and written by our editorial staff, of some of our current favorite things about Kansas City in 2023. We’ll be publishing these items online throughout November.
Barbacoa was a unanimous staff pick—turns out it was your pick, too. Chef Roman Raya has always been driven to bring his nostalgic favorites to life on the plate and then to share those tastes with others. He believes he now has the vehicle to do just that with Barbacoa, his new restaurant located on the corner of 55th and Troost and winner of “Best New Restaurant” in 2023.
After trying most of Barbacoa’s drinks and dishes, we’re inclined to agree. Barbacoa hits the sweet spot of being experientially casual, but a well-crafted menu and expert service make it feel special. The limited menu of chef-driven dishes is thoughtfully built for brunch, dinner, and cocktails.
Raya and his brother, Phillip, are co-owners, and they run the kitchen at Barbacoa as executive chef and sous chef. Mixing up a devilishly delicious drink menu is another co-owner, Madeline Buechter. The menu is inspired by the Mexican flavors and dishes that the Raya brothers grew up enjoying at backyard family gatherings. That said, Raya wants to clarify the style of cooking the restaurant is doing.
“Barbecue means a lot of things to a lot of people, especially in Kansas City,” he says. “Our dishes are inspired by the flavors of traditional Mexican food, told through the cooking style of barbecue. You’re going to get a lot of smoky, tender meats. You’re going to get a huge depth of flavor. There are a lot of spices and a lot of big, bold tastes. This is the type of food I remember from my childhood, but elevated and adapted for a new audience.”
Photos by Brooke Tramel
Barbacoa is located at 5500 Troost Ave., Kansas City, MO 64110.
