Bargain Beef
My late father, who never quite recovered from the deprivations of his Depression-era youth, would have been scandalized by the idea of a “gourmet” cheeseburger and a tower of onion rings — no matter how delicious they might have tasted — that cost nearly $14 at Red Robin Gourmet Burgers & Spirits (see review). Then again, he would have fainted if he’d seen gasoline priced at more than $1.50 a gallon and a cup of coffee going for almost two bucks.
But I have friends and acquaintances who swear that the best cheeseburger in town is also one of the cheapest: the made-to-order $1.35 cheeseburgers at Hayes Hamburgers & Chili, a terrific 24-hour diner at 2502 N.E. Vivion Road, across from Cosentino’s Price Chopper.
Hayes is legendary in the Northland. It’s been serving all-day and all-night breakfasts, burgers, burritos, spaghetti, chili and chocolate cream pie (from a menu written on mounted boards) since 1955, back when the nearby stretch of North Antioch Road was still gravel.
The tiny diner hasn’t changed much since Irvin and Alice Louise Hayes opened it, about the same time that The Honeymooners first went on the air. The Hayeses have moved on to that all-night diner in the sky, but at their old place, the stainless-steel doors and walls are still spotless and shiny, the coffee is still fresh and there are still ashtrays on every table. Today the booths are upholstered in blue leatherette that matches the tiled floors and the vinyl on eleven stools tucked around the white Formica counter.
At Hayes, the tab for a cheeseburger, curly fries and onion rings — which would cost $14 at Red Robin — runs about five bucks, not including tip. A bowl of chili goes for about $3.60 (ditto for spaghetti), and a big, sloppy chili dog sells for $2.40. Not exactly 1955 prices, but not bad, either.
In 1955, a McDonald’s burger cost 15 cents (a cheeseburger went for a few cents more), and White Castle sold 12 burgers for a dollar.
As for that basic cheeseburger, smothered in cooked onions and served with pickles: It’s comparable to the cheeseburgers served at either of the downtown Town Topic diners (1900 Baltimore and 2021 Broadway) or at Heriford’s Grill on the east side (4613 Independence Avenue). They’re not as juicy as Red Robin’s gourmet burgers or heaped with as much stuff, but for a frugal diner craving a greasy, hot patty all gooey with melted American cheese, it’s pure heaven. Even at four in the morning.
