Eat This Now: Esquites labneh at Beirut Taco

Beirut Taco // Photo by Cory Swieczkowski

Lebanese-Mexican fusion makes its home along 39th Street as Beirut Tacos opened its doors the week of April 13.

Located on West 39th Street, the restaurant, owned by Maher Chebaro, hopes to showcase his love for Mexican food while drawing on his Lebanese background. “Growing up in Beirut, I always loved going to see Mexican Lucha Libre wrestlers when they came to town,” Chebaro says. “That early fascination turned into a deeper appreciation for the unique connection between Lebanese and Mexican cultures, including how Lebanese immigrants in Mexico introduced the spit-roasted tradition that became tacos al pastor.” Now you can enjoy this tradition with fresh herbs and spices close to home.

Longtime Kansas Citians may recognize the location as the old D’Bronx, which left a sizable hole along 39th Street and in locals’ memories. More recently, the fast-casual Mediterranean concept Zoug opened and closed within almost six months.

Esquites labneh // Photo by Cory Swieczkowski

Beirut Tacos is up against layout challenges directly tied to the building and past restaurants. The relatively thin building stretches back to the restrooms and does not give the impression of a sit-down restaurant, with a long service counter running along most of the western wall, now redesigned as the restaurant’s bar. Change is scary, I get it. I think the host realized this as I was standing in the doorway, staring inside for an unusually long time. Thankfully, the staff was more than willing to help me find a seat.

Don’t let the awkwardness of not knowing whether to order at the counter or sit down deter you from an amazing dining experience. I chose to sit near the window for one of the best people-watching spots in the city. It’s not creepy if I am enjoying delicious food. The rest of the restaurant has natural light flooding both walls, depicting Chihuahuan and Mediterranean desert influences along intricate murals.

From the mouthwatering list of appetizers, I selected the esquites labneh ($12). This dish features charred corn mixed with smoked labneh (a thick, tangy yogurt spread), Aleppo pepper, and is topped with feta cheese and scallions. Inspired by Mexican street corn, the creamy labneh replaces traditional mayonnaise, creating a mild and refreshing dip with a sweet corn finish that left me scraping every last bite with the chips.

Lamb hashwe burrito and chicken shawarma tacos // Photo by Cory Swieczkowski

I tried the chicken shawarma tacos ($13), which are filled with chicken marinated in a traditional Middle Eastern spice blend and topped with chipotle toum aioli (a garlicky chili sauce), pickles, sumac, cilantro, and onion. The sumac complemented the tangy crunch of the pickles.

I also tried the lamb hashwe burrito ($18). Exactly what you want in a burrito using braised leg of lamb; it feels perfectly at home in a Yoli Bakeria tortilla. The meat’s flavor is the main character, with avocado-tahini, hashwe rice, pico de gallo, and a labneh crema finish off the inside. The texture was that of a typical shredded beef burrito, but with the unmistakable lamb taste.

Currently, the menu features salads, burritos, and tacos as main options, but keep an eye out—more changes may arrive in the coming months. I will be returning frequently to round out the rest of the existing menu and see what else this cultural fusion has to offer.

Beirut Taco is located at 3904 Bell St., Kansas City, MO 64111.