Sweet corn summer: Lazia’s new menu is a worthy celebration of Midwest produce

Radiatore and Whole Branzino at Lazia // Photo by Sarah Sipple

If we have to suffer at the hands of corn sweat, at least people like Chef Aaron Cross Wells-Morgan and the team at Lazia make the most of each kernel, purely for our culinary enjoyment.

Lazia Restaurant is Italian cuisine at its foundation, but leaves itself open to regional, seasonal, or creative adjustments. The new summer menu leans on in-season produce, specifically sweet corn, cherry tomatoes, and basil. 

To kick off an unpretentious date night, the staff at Lazia recommended that we try the new tomato cocktail they’ve been workshopping. Reposado Reverie from Lazia Bartender Brittney Lumos encapsulates a fresh tomato experience: a savory first impression with a whisper of acidity, that finishes with a brief moment of sweetness. To achieve this, reposado tequila and mezcal are joined with summer tomatoes, a vermouth blend, lime juice, and egg whites. Finishing touches include fresh cracked pepper, salt, and house-made herb oil.

Reposado Reverie at Lazia // Photo by Sarah Sipple

A must-try starter is the focaccia ($9). It’s slightly toasted and served with basil-infused butter and olive oil. I had to balance that warm and crusty dish with something fresh. I can’t resist a crudo moment when I know it will include strong herbal flavors or sauces. At Lazia, the Yellowtail Tuna Crudo ($23) fit that well. Yellowtail tuna cubes, cherry tomato, cucumber, lemon, basil, and acqua pazza, all married well for a scoopable bite aboard an endive boat.

Focaccia at Lazia // Photo by Sarah Sipple

The dish that has been living rent-free in my mind since this dinner is Radiatore ($22). Complementing house-made radiatori pasta, the dish included roasted corn, stracciatella, sweet corn crema, cipollini (onions), fried garlic, and black pepper, which was all drizzled at the table with a 15-year-aged balsamic vinegar. It’s tough for a dish to be temperature–hot, but still give a fresh and light feel. Not only did radiatore accomplish this, but it did so with impeccable textures.

Mafaldine Alla Vodka ($28) is a good choice for those preferring a tomato-based Italian pasta dish. However, this one has some kick from chili and sausage from the Calabria region in Southern Italy. Ribbons of house-made mafaldine were deepened by ‘nduja, meatball crumbles, Calabrian chili, basil, and local honey.

Yellowtail Crudo at Lazia // Photo by Sarah Sipple

Admittedly, this was my first whole branzino. I enjoy fish, but sheepishly, I do not enjoy doing any of the work for fish. Lazia’s whole branzino ($48) is served butterflied, making it easy to carve out flaky layers of fish. It rested on a slightly soupy bed of sweet corn freshly shaved off the cob, chanterelles, cipollini, pancetta, and corn crema. The way the fish carried the fresh corn flavor truly impressed me and set the bar high for future dishes.

Lazia Restaurant made me a branzino fan and reinstated itself in our date-night rotation. It never really left, but Percheron tends to become a delightful replacement in the summer months.

Lazia is located inside Crossroads Hotel, at 2101 Central St, Kansas City, MO 64108.