Eat This Now: Shrimp and grits at Urban
Photo by Sarah Sipple
Lately, I’ve found myself thinking of food more in the context of function rather than fun, connection, pleasure, and culture. Hopefully I get over that soon. So while searching for my next lunch spot, I skimmed through half a dozen menus before inspiration struck.
On Urban’s website, shrimp and grits caught my attention as an uncommon dish ‘round here. Second, these were no ordinary grits—They were gouda grits. And once I saw that it was served with collard greens, I was sold. I added it to my calendar and texted a friend that very minute.
Urban is a newly-opened revamp of Urban Cafe, which had a location a few blocks away and still has a location in the new airport. Housed on the first floor of a swanky new building, details like fresh flowers, heavy flatware, and comfortable upholstered chairs make it fitting for a business lunch or date night.
Or even breakfast! This would be the spot to visit when you want a break from the shiplap and chalkboard brunch chains.
On the breakfast menu (served until 3 p.m.) shrimp and grits ($19) included gouda grits, collard greens, bacon chunks, and plump tiger shrimp.
First I dove in for a standalone bite of the cheesy grits. The choice of gouda made for a deeper, earthier cheese flavor for the grits than similar recipes I’ve tried. The grits themselves were cooked to perfection–not quite mush but close. A firmness remained amongst the starch.
I’ll take this over a risotto any day. Then again, I grew up eating canned hominy with many a meal.
Photo by Sarah Sipple
It all sat in a pool of savory, gouda-blessed, warm broth–likely a mix of the remaining “juice” from the collard greens and grits. The greens were some of the thickest I’ve had, and like the grits, cooked to perfection. Next time I will ask for an extra side of greens, but it is not currently on the menu.
Five plump shrimp, specifically tiger prawns, lay under the greens, onions, bacon, and microgreens. Nestled in the grits, they stayed warm and continued to take on the dish’s flavor.
The impressive realization I had about this dish is that despite the cheesiness, the collard greens, heck, even bacon, it was not defined by saltiness. It was thoroughly seared and flavored, indeed. But as someone who is particularly sensitive to salt, this dish was simply satisfying.
And even further from my too-salty sensibilities, were the sticky duck wings ($13) on the lunch menu. These lean duck wings had a decadent sticky black soy glaze. I want that glaze on everything. Everything.
I accept that many will disagree with me here, but the salad served alongside the wings was equally good. The bright vinegar and mustard dressing was a perfect contradiction to the sweet wing glaze. Shaved brussel sprouts and kale gave a hearty roughage to balance the tender wing meat.
Urban Restaurant is at 3420 Troost Ave, Kansas City, MO 64109.
