Eat This Now: Portobello Z-Man at Joe’s KC

Portobello Z-Man at Joe’s KC // Photo by Sarah Sipple

As a former vegetarian, now Food Editor, I couldn’t let a BBQ-themed issue pass without at least one non-meat option. 

For a meat alternative that was accessible in multiple areas of KC, and right at home in a carnivore’s heaven, it came down to Char Bar’s smoked jackfruit Jackknife sandwich and this Portobello Z-Man. Mushrooms are enjoying a mainstream moment right now so let’s see how they fit into the Kansas City barbecue scene.

First, a little background. The Z-Man dates back to the late 1990s and definitely did not start with mushrooms. Owner Jeff Stehney came up with the sandwich idea–unique with its onion rings, smoked provolone, and Kaiser roll enhancing the established staples of brisket and barbeque sauce. 

Stehney went on the radio with Joe’s regular and local sports radio host Mike Zarrick to promote the sandwich with a naming contest. Zarrick’s fanbase knew of his passion for Joe’s and thus the winning name was declared “Z-Man!”

Now, the iconic Z-Man has its own section of the menu where diners can choose between meats ($10.79-11.29) and one veg-friendly portobello option ($11.29). The next choice to make is whether to try regular or jumbo. The $2 upgrade adds an extra heap of the main feature. Enter: mushrooms.

Between a Kaiser roll, smoky portobello mushrooms cut into strips are barely held together by melty provolone. Two onion rings don’t do much by way of structural integrity but add a welcome crunch and hint of sweetness. 

A lot of the innards slide out of the sandwich, but the droppings are just as good without the bun. It is messy as hell, as it should be. Just another way to get that authentic barbeque feel when guests around you are going to town on ribs and dripping pulled pork. There are paper towel rolls on each table.

Speaking of messy, I opted to add more sauce. Specifically, Night of the Living Bar-B-Q–the hotter variety of their signature sauce. I appreciate the kitchen’s choice to be sparing with the sauce. It’s easier to add more than to deal with people complaining that there’s too much. My specific handheld was like a mound of smoked mushrooms than a barbeque sandwich, so it needed more oompf. Next time I will either order the regular-size portion or request an extra slice of provolone to round it out.

For sides, the Spicy Slaw and an order of Onion Rings made for a fabulous balance. 

Though not fully plant-based (alas, cheese) this sandwich is a reprieve for vegetarians and anyone reducing meat. You’re not stuck with a lackluster side salad or plain fries when dining in the heart of cow town. The Missouri White Oak-smoked portobellos were expertly done. The bun did not sog and give up too soon, nor was it crumby.

This was a lot of food, and I did my best. Happily.

Joe’s Kansas City Bar-b-que has locations in KCK, Olathe, and Leawood.