Wild Child is James Beard Award-nominated Drastic Measures’ vibrant sister
We imbibed at the highly-anticipated wine, cocktail, and low/no ABV bar opening this week in Shawnee.
Custom bottle designs at Wild Child. // Photo by Sarah Sipple
Even before the announcement of Drastic Measures being nominated for a James Beard Award for Outstanding Bar, buzz was building for Wild Child. Public-facing co-owner of both establishments, Jay Sanders has a way of cultivating radical and artful spaces irrespective of trends but that showcase authenticity and care. Those spaces just happen to be cocktail bars, and Wild Child is the newest, most inclusive one yet.
Next door to dark and moody Drastic Measures in Shawnee, Wild Child opens its sunlit and floral space this week. From a warm atmosphere of plants and wood paneling, rich colors and textures, and even fabulous adjustable lighting for bathroom selfies- it. Is. Fun. And here, even more people can join in the fun since the menu includes “low and no” alcohol-by-volume cocktails with just as much attention to the craft as the rest.
On Friday afternoon at 5:15, we were ushered to our seats at the bar, giving us a front-row seat to seasoned pro Zach Nielsen pouring, shaking, garnishing, and answering my many questions. Sun began pouring through the rain-streaked windows, illuminating the intimate space and matching the vibe of the friendly and excited staff.
Mezpresso Martini at Wild Child. // Photo by Sarah Sipple
Our first round started with a bang—a little caffeine in the Mezpresso Martini and a red wine with the only description on the menu being “Bang! Bang! Bang!” Their version of an espresso martini is sweet and soft, subbing mezcal for vodka, plus cold brew, guajillo bitters, banana, agave, and coffee cordial. I admit that I couldn’t pick up the banana or pepper notes. It is on the sweeter end of espresso martini drinks, but the thin texture and caramel color prove that it is not relying on common cream liqueurs to cut the strong alcohol taste.
The red wine was a 2022 Division-Villages “Méthode Carbonique” from Willamette Valley. This pinot noir had a crunchy fruit kick and was a pleasant pair with the gentler Mezpresso Martini.
Interior motif at Wild Child. // Photo by Sarah Sipple
The wine list was curated by Lori O’Donnell, who focused on incorporating familiar grape varietals but from independent wineries. O’Donnell is in tune with Kansas City’s wine preferences, and while the wine selection will rotate based on availability from smaller producers, the types and profiles will remain the same.
As a contrast to the sweet and fruity first round, we chose Vegetal and Acid Drop for our next round. Vegetal is one of Wild Child’s bottled cocktails, which is available by the glass ($12) or bottle ($40). These are bottled and force-carbonated in-house, resulting in a lower-alcohol cocktail option (approximately 8-15% ABV) that can be poured and served quicker than a craft cocktail. As a result of the force-carbonation in glass bottles, these cocktails are slightly effervescent, smooth, and oh-so-drinkable.
The Vegetal bottled cocktail is made with gin, clarified cucumber, celery, blanc vermouth, aloe, clarified bell pepper, basil distillate, and citrus acids. Though it smells exactly like fresh green juice, the color is clear, and the taste is surprisingly bright and sweet. This one is (too?) easy to drink, as the balance of tart and syrup tease a delightful aftertaste.
Greenery at the entrance of Wild Child. // Photo by Sarah Sipple
We wanted something familiar or common to compare to other bar menus, so we ordered the Acid Drop- similar to a lemon drop. We were wrong. This complex and mysterious cocktail was not comparable to a standard lemon drop. With a ranking of 6/10 sweetness and 7/10 tartness, the profile doesn’t stop there but surprises the tongue and nose with depth from green cardamom. The pleasant taste, combined with the complex hints of earthiness, made this a favorite of the night. (Insider tip: If you like this one, try the Crimson Goose cocktail from Bar Stillwell at Loews Hotel in downtown Kansas City next.)
Bar Czars and bar view at Wild Child. // Photo by Sarah Sipple
Last but not least was the Curry Club cocktail. This is a lovely light-pink dink with a pleasant foam made from a vegan egg white substitute called Fee Foam. The foam adds a frothy texture without distracting from the raspberry- and lime-forward flavor. The taste is that of a sour candy with a slightly earthy aftertaste borrowed from the light fragrance of curry. I would like to see them play with the curry ratio for a more prominent flavor.
Wild Child may be restrained due to the small space, but Sanders has gone wild in the best way with creativity and unexpected ingredients. It’s rare to find a natural wine from Austria, a French 75 with shaved ice, and a Cucumber Fernojito with non-alcoholic Fernet Branca Menta all on the same menu. You don’t have to be a drinker, but you must be 21+ to take this wild ride.
Wild Child is at 11022 Johnson Dr., Shawnee, KS 66203. Wild Child serves drinks on Wednesday through Friday from 5-11 p.m., Saturday from 1-11 p.m., and Sunday from 1-8 p.m. Reservations are encouraged.
