Dinner at Genovese

This appealing, very casual Italian restaurant is owned by Subarna Bhattachan and Alejandro Lule – proprietors of Lawrence’s popular La Parilla and Zen Zero dining spots – and Mexican-born chef Armando Paniagua. Meals begin with a plate of soft foccacia and a tiny dish of olives, green beans and chopped carrots marinated in a fragrant blend of olive oil, anise and rosemary. Paniagua’s menu is an interesting mix of traditional and inventive Italian fare with hot and cold starters ranging from the sublime (crispy flash-fried zucchini chips) to the seductive (warm grilled octopus tossed with spicy arugula, shaved fennel, white beans and fresh lemon juice). Genovese serves excellent pizzas, pastas and sophisticated entrées as well. But don’t get too full, the dessert list is too good to pass up.

Tue., Sept. 9, 2008